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Backyard Hens

I gave birth to my first daughter when I was 27 years-old and, according to an invisible cosmic plan, every seven years I welcomed another daughter into the world. With my youngest about to turn seven, and without any conscious pining for new life, I came up with the idea, perfectly on cue, of expanding my brood to include not one, but six lovely new girls. They're hens, to be more precise, and I surprise myself by enjoying and doting on them far more than I expected to.

There is, of course, the issue of propitious timing, and there is also the natural evolution of whims and desires. My own evolution was helped along by people like Joan Dye Gussow, a passionate advocate for eating locally and well. In her book, This Organic Life, which I read many years ago, she describes the challenge she took on in mid-life of growing all of her own food in a large and ambitious garden.  Back then, her commitment helped firm my resolve to eat as locally and cleanly as I could. This year I read her new book, Growing Older, and renewed my commitment to self sufficiency; hence a perpetuation of the 7-year cycle and my hens.

I actually long wanted hens but, to be honest, I was afraid. With so many predators around, I wondered how I would I keep hens alive. More to the self-absorbed point, I wondered how I would deal with death when it happened, how would I clean up the mess.

After months of burying my nose in books and articles, I convinced myself I could do it. So this spring, I welcomed new life and there is so much about it that I love. The hens run free on pasture, they eat bugs and stir up my compost pile, and here is the kicker: They turn grass, bugs, and kitchen scraps into really superior eggs.

If you have ever daydreamed about small-scale farming, raising livestock in your own backyard, or taking personal responsibility for raising some portion of the food you eat, I cannot tell you what a joy you would find tending hens to be. They are smart; who knew? They are wonderfully athletic. They have distinct personalities, and recognize and greet those who tend them. They let me know when they’re happy and what they need, and they make a soft cluck-clucking noise with a sort of rolling, back-of-the-throat purr that soothes and reassures.

For the linguist in you, there is another fun aspect to raising hens: There are so many figures of speech that come from chicken tending. They will come to mind daily and you will say, “Oh, that’s where that turn of phrase originated.” Here are a few to help you see what I mean:

  • Coming home to roost: At the end of the day, hens run to the coop and fly up to a horizontal bar, or a tree branch if they live in the wild, to roost for the night.

  • Rooster: The male of the species sits high on a tree branch where he roosts to watch over his hens. So, he is the “roost-er.”

  • Hen pecked: When hens are irritated with each other, which doesn’t happen often if they have ample space, they peck at each other with sharp beaks.

  • Don’t put all your eggs in one basket: If, when you go out to gather eggs, you put all of them into one basket, you might lose the whole bunch by dropping or knocking it. If you put some eggs into one basket and the rest in another, there is a greater likelihood you will have eggs for breakfast.

  • Running chicken: When young hens are threatened, they don’t run toward the aggressor to defend themselves, they turn and run away.

  • Scratching out a living: Chickens scratch the soil to find bugs to fill their bellies.

  • Pecking order: Within a group of hens, there exists a hierarchy, and pecking is the means to put an up-and-comer in her place.

  • Flying the coop: A hen will occasionally take flight and leave the coop, which brings us to a related figure of speech…

  • The grass is always greener on the other side of the fence. Hens might roam on a pasture full of grass, weeds, bugs and all a chicken could desire. But they will still stick their heads through the fence, or go over the fence, in search of some imagined improvement in circumstances.

Here are a few more examples to give you some idea of what an agricultural people we once were, with an entire lexicon established around the shared experience of chicken tending: nest egg, hatch an idea, cock-eyed, feather your nest, hen house, mother hen, rule the roost, bad egg, walking on eggshells; and there are more. If you someday get your own hens, you will have the fun of conjuring up the rest yourself.

Copyright, Ellen Arian, Ellen’s Food & Soul

The Allure of Summer Pickles

You might feel as I do, that as the pace of our days has quickened, we rarely make room for anticipation in our lives. Experiences move past us one after another, with little time to hope or wonder about the future, and even less time to reflect on pleasures of the past. Yet in our flurry, we may be missing an aspect of life that is beautiful and essential; planning, looking ahead, and preparing for what’s to come enlarges our experience and, as it does, it deepens every satisfaction.

It pays to look for ways to welcome anticipation back into our lives and, in the summer kitchen, making pickles is one way to do this. The process of making pickles slows us down because it unfolds over days or weeks and can’t be rushed. It is a process that has a beginning, middle, and end, and with each phase expectation builds.

There is, of course, a familiar and circular challenge. Making pickles takes time when we have none to spare. But pickle making is unique among kitchen endeavors in that it allows us to rely on an invisible team of helpmates, the bacterial cultures that make fermentation happen. These cultures move our labors along and toil for us as we tend to other tasks. Once we establish a home for them, we have the pleasure of observing their work—marveling at their bubbles, smelling, poking, and tasting from time to time.

What’s better is that if you are at home as much as I am, you will appreciate experiencing adventure without ever leaving your kitchen because pickle making is an endless source of mystery and wonder. The process is fascinating; it is also the cherished source of a quiet and particular kind of excitement.

What I find most memorable about a good batch of pickles is its telltale crunch: sour and salty, cool and refreshing, and especially welcome in the heat of summer. Each batch of pickles has subtle variations in taste, texture, and color, but with each you can bite into a pickle and hear and feel it give. This is what separates real pickles from all others.  Behind the crunch is the fact that real pickles are fermented in a salty brine, not preserved in vinegar. Fermentation enhances their vitality and makes them a living food.

Homemade pickles are so easy to make. The recipe is as fool proof as a fermentation recipe can be, which is a confession of sorts. Once a summer, when it’s really hot and my kitchen is especially inviting to an army of microbes, I have a batch that fails. The reason why remains a mystery, but then how cucumbers become pickles is a mystery, too.

Here is a recipe for you to use and enjoy. It my adaptation of a recipe from Wild Fermentation by Sandor Katz, and you can scale it up or down depending on how many cucumbers you have on hand.

Ingredients

3-4 pounds small pickling cucumbers
6 tablespoons coarse sea salt (I use gray Celtic Sea Salt)
3-4 heads fresh flowering dill, or 3-4 tablespoons dill in any form
2-3 heads fresh garlic, scrubbed with loose peels discarded and cloves separated (there is no need to fully peel the cloves)
1 handful fresh oak, horseradish, cherry or grape leaves
6-8 whole black peppercorns

Recipe

1. Rinse cucumbers and scrape off any remaining blossoms. If you are using cucumbers that were not just picked, soak them for a couple of hours in cold water to freshen them. 

2. Place sea salt in 1/2 gallon of filtered water to create a brine solution. Stir until the sea salt is thoroughly dissolved. Some recipes ask you to boil the brine, but this isn’t necessary.

3. For 3-4 pounds of cucumbers, I use 3 half-gallon glass canning jars, but the recipe works with any ceramic crock or bowl (see Note below). Into the bottom of each jar place equal portions of the dill, garlic cloves, fresh leaves , and peppercorns.

4. Divide the cucumbers among the jars and gently cover them with either pickle weights or another object that will keep them submerged under the brine. Then add enough brine to cover the cucumbers by an inch or two. If you run out, mix more brine using the same ratio of just under 1 tablespoon of coarse sea salt to 1 cup of water. Loosely cover the jars and leave them at room temperature out of direct sunlight.

5. Check the pickles every few days and skim any mold from the surface, but don’t worry if you can’t get it all. 

6. Taste the pickles 7–10 days after starting the recipe. When you like the flavor, remove the pickles and place them in a clean storage container. Strain the brine you used for pickling and add it to the container, covering the pickles completely. If you like pickled garlic, you can also collect the whole garlic cloves, cover them with brine, and store them separately in the refrigerator.

Note: If you use a crock or bowl for making pickles, you will need 3 additional items: a plate that fits inside the crock or bowl, a sealed bag of water or other weight, and a dishcloth to cover. Gently place the plate over the cucumbers and use the weight to keep them submerged. Then cover the container with the dishcloth to keep out dust. 

I love experimenting in the kitchen, which means I learn many lessons through trial and error. Based on my own experience, here are some hard-won pickle-making tips: Pickle-Making Wisdom

Copyright, Ellen Arian, Ellen’s Food & Soul